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Ingredient

Cica / Tiger Grass

Scientific name: Centella Asiatica Extract · Soothing, barrier repair, anti-inflammatory

Centella Asiatica, often called cica or tiger grass, is the calming hero of Korean skincare. K-beauty brands rely on it to soothe redness, support sensitised skin, and back up stronger actives like retinol or exfoliating acids. Look for the active markers madecassoside, asiaticoside, and madecassic acid on the label.

Botanical extract with madecassoside and asiaticoside; calms irritation and supports collagen.

Good for

SensitiveReactiveRosaceaAcneBarrier Damaged

Caution

Rare contact allergy.

Ingredient Evidence · Series

Cica / Tiger Grass, what the science says

A close read of the peer-reviewed research, with sources you can check yourself and an honest note on where the evidence still has gaps.

A note from me

Founder · atopic dermatitis, sensitive skin

The recommendation for cica actually came from my mum. She swears by the Medeca Cica Cream. Her skin is heavily stressed because of ongoing chemotherapy, and she has been using it as part of her routine for six months now. She says it feels very good, soft and light.

I started using it too. I do not love the smell, but it seems like a fine all-rounder cream.

Below is what the studies actually found. Sources linked throughout.

What is actually in it

8 active compounds

01

Asiaticoside

Collagen I synthesis and scar remodeling

02

Madecassoside

Anti-inflammatory and barrier repair

03

Asiatic Acid

Fibroblast stimulation and antioxidant

04

Madecassic Acid

ECM remodeling and wound repair

05

Flavonoids

Antioxidant and UV protection

06

Phytosterols

Barrier function and moisture retention

07

Polyphenols

Anti-inflammatory signaling

08

Amino Acids

Lysine and serine for skin structure

Evidence by benefit

5 areas

01

Wound Healing and Scar Management

This is where centella has its deepest evidence base. Multiple RCTs and systematic reviews confirm it accelerates wound closure, improves scar quality and supports re-epithelialization. The active compounds asiaticoside and madecassoside work by activating the TGF-beta/Smad pathway. That pathway drives collagen deposition and extracellular matrix synthesis.

It has also been included in clinical recommendations for post-laser scar management. A study using 0.05% ECa 233 gel after laser resurfacing for acne scars showed significant improvement in erythema and wound appearance.

Prospective randomized double-blind controlled trial, PMC6166374
Centella cream applied to split-thickness skin graft donor sites was assessed using the Vancouver Scar Scale at 4, 8 and 12 weeks. Asiaticoside and madecassoside together induced collagen synthesis, fibroblast proliferation and improved scar outcomes versus placebo.
Systematic review of RCTs, PMC8956065
A PRISMA systematic review across four clinical trials found centella asiatica enhanced wound healing through improved angiogenesis, wound contraction, granulation and re-epithelialization. Improvements were documented in erythema scores, healing time and wound appearance.
PMC6166374 Centella Scar RCTPMC8956065 Systematic ReviewPMC11510310 Wound Healing Mechanisms
02

Sensitive Skin and Barrier Repair

Madecassoside is specifically studied for sensitive and reactive skin. It calms inflammatory signaling by inhibiting NF-kB and JAK/STAT3 pathways. It also promotes ceramide synthesis which helps the skin barrier retain moisture and reduce transepidermal water loss.

It is photostability-friendly. Unlike many actives it does not cause photosensitivity so it works morning and evening without complication. If someone is adapting to retinol and finding it irritating, adding a centella product has clinical logic behind it as a calming support.

Clinical study 2020
A madecassoside cream significantly reduced sensitivity scores and improved barrier function in subjects with sensitive skin after four weeks of use. This is part of why centella-based products became a go-to recommendation for people recovering from over-exfoliation or managing rosacea and eczema.
HOIA Sensitive Skin Evidence ReviewPMC8627341 Pharmacological Effects on Skin
03

Anti-Aging and Collagen Synthesis

Centella stimulates collagen type I and III synthesis through fibroblast activation. It also inhibits the enzymes that degrade existing collagen. Asiaticoside specifically stimulates hyaluronic acid production in addition to collagen I. Long-term studies show improved elasticity, hydration and wrinkle reduction with consistent use.

La Roche Posay study, madecassoside 0.1% with Vitamin C
After 6 months of use, the combination showed significant improvement in fine lines, wrinkles, firmness and skin roughness. Madecassoside was identified as the key driver of ECM remodeling in the formulation.
CICA-derived extracellular vesicle formulation, Cosmetics Journal 2025
A 15-day human application study in 20 participants with mean age 50.7 showed 17.9% reduction in mean pore area, 26.9% reduction in pore density and 9% decrease in surface roughness. Dermal hydration was measured at multiple depths via ultrasound.
Cosmetics Journal 2025 CICA-EV TrialMeder Madecassoside Anti-aging ReviewPMC6259745 Triterpene Bioactivities
04

UV Protection and Photoaging

The flavonoids and polyphenols in centella have antioxidant activity comparable to grape seed extract (84% vs 83% in comparative assays) and close to Vitamin C at 88%. At 10% concentration centella extract showed UV protection effects similar to octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), a standard UV filter. It also inhibits glycation. That is the molecular process which stiffens and ages skin under chronic sun exposure.

The ScienceDirect 2025 review synthesizing evidence from 2016 to 2025 confirmed that centella's triterpenoids act across complementary pathways including oxidative stress mitigation and photoprotection to improve skin endpoints at the histological level.

Triterpene bioactivity analysis, PMC6259745
Centella extract demonstrated lipolytic activity, antioxidant capacity near that of grape seed extract and UV protection comparable to a standard chemical filter. Collagen synthesis was highest at 50mg/mL of extract concentration.
PMC6259745 Antioxidant and UV EvidenceScienceDirect 2025 Mechanisms Review
05

Hydration and Skin Texture

Beyond wound healing centella supports general hydration through two mechanisms. Ceramide synthesis for barrier integrity and hyaluronic acid stimulation for moisture binding. A randomized double-blind clinical trial in the Journal of Medicinal Food found that women taking centella extract for six months showed improvements in skin elasticity and hydration. Topical studies showed improvements in fine lines alongside barrier reinforcement.

RCT in Journal of Medicinal Food
Six months of centella asiatica supplementation in women produced measurable improvements in skin elasticity and hydration. Topical application studies also showed fine line reduction alongside TEWL reduction and improved barrier scores.
HOIA Elasticity and Hydration RCTPMC9983323 Asiaticoside and Madecassoside Review

What the research does not yet fully answer

Most studies use specific purified compounds like madecassoside or asiaticoside rather than whole plant extract. A product labeled centella asiatica extract may have very different active concentrations depending on how it was processed. Look for the specific triterpene names high on the ingredient list for the strongest evidence-backed versions. Wound healing and sensitive skin benefits show up relatively quickly. Anti-aging effects require consistent use over months. It does not interact negatively with other actives and is safe for daily use morning and evening.

Sources (9)Show
  1. 01A Prospective Randomized Controlled Double-Blind Trial of Centella Cream for Scar Improvement. PMC. PMC6166374 link
  2. 02A Systematic Review of the Effect of Centella asiatica on Wound Healing. PMC. PMC8956065 link
  3. 03Topical Application of Centella asiatica in Wound Healing: Recent Insights into Mechanisms and Clinical Efficacy. PMC. PMC11510310 link
  4. 04Pharmacological Effects of Centella asiatica on Skin Diseases: Evidence and Possible Mechanisms. PMC, 2021. PMC8627341 link
  5. 05Clinical Efficacy and Safety Evaluation of a CICA-Derived Extracellular Vesicle Formulation for Anti-Aging Skincare. Cosmetics Journal, 2025. link
  6. 06Centella asiatica in skin health and cosmeceuticals: mechanisms, clinical evidence and advanced delivery systems. ScienceDirect, 2025. link
  7. 07Therapeutic properties and pharmacological activities of asiaticoside and madecassoside: A review. PMC, 2023. PMC9983323 link
  8. 08Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica. PMC. PMC6259745 link
  9. 09Role of Cica in Skincare Formulations: Examination of a Popular Ingredient. SKINmed, 2022. PubMed 35532760 link

For informational purposes only, not medical advice.

Best Korean products with Cica / Tiger Grass

No published products use this yet.

Good fit for

  • • Sensitive, reactive, or easily flushed skin
  • • Routines that include retinol, acids, or strong acne actives
  • • Post-procedure or post-breakout skin that needs calming

Worth skipping if

  • • Known allergy to plants in the Apiaceae family (rare)

Frequently asked questions

› What is centella asiatica and what does it do?

Centella asiatica is a plant extract rich in triterpenes (madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, asiatic acid). In skincare it helps calm visible redness, support the skin barrier, and reduce the look of irritation. It is the active behind most products labelled cica or tiger grass.

› Is cica the same as centella?

Yes. Cica is short for centella asiatica. K-beauty brands tend to use the names interchangeably on labels and packaging.

› Is centella good for acne?

It will not clear active breakouts on its own, but it pairs extremely well with acne routines. Centella calms the redness around blemishes and helps the skin tolerate stronger acne actives like BHA, retinol, or benzoyl peroxide.

› Can I use centella every day?

Yes. Centella is gentle enough for daily morning and evening use, and it layers safely with almost every other ingredient including vitamin C, niacinamide, retinol, and acids.

› What is the difference between centella and madecassoside?

Madecassoside is one of the most active compounds inside the centella asiatica plant. Some products use the whole extract; others isolate madecassoside for a more concentrated calming effect. Both work, isolated forms tend to act faster on visible redness.

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